Day 1: Uzbekistan

It's late June in Tashkent, 11am, 32° in the shade (90°F), UV index off the charts, 24% humidity.  A really nice day for this time of year.  We walk to Café Breadly from our house through the mahalla where the workers from the regions have been busy on on all the various house construction/remodel projects since … Continue reading Day 1: Uzbekistan

Day 2: Kokildor-Ota Khanaka

15th century Termez was a city on the brink of transition.  The Timirud epoch was in full swing, decedents of Amir Timur fighting amongst themselves to maintain the vestiges of his once great empire, and putting their own personal stamp on things with monumental construction projects all over Central Asia.  The Sayyids were still hanging … Continue reading Day 2: Kokildor-Ota Khanaka

Day 3: Fayoz-Tepe

While Kara-Tepe may be the more exciting Buddhist monastical complex, located well within the sensitive border zone, requiring advance permission, nice view of Afghanistan, and shrapnel mixed in among the ancient pot shards, Fayoz-Tepe is decidedly the more monumental of the two.  They're even within sight of each other, and date from the same period, … Continue reading Day 3: Fayoz-Tepe

Day 4: Ming O’rik

With such an impressive history dating back to the very dawn of humanity, Uzbekistan's smaller, but nonetheless significant architectural sites are often forgotten in favor of the three big silk road highlights.  The Khiva, Samarkand, and Bukhara travelers see today represent only a fraction of the thousands of years of history worth exploring in this … Continue reading Day 4: Ming O’rik

Day 5: Kara-Tepe

The most extensive Buddhist monastical complex yet discovered in Uzbekistan, the Kara-Tepe archeological site is spread over three sections and dates from the second century AD when territory united under the Kushan Empire enabled Buddhism to spread from India northwards along the silk road.  The three sections represent three distinct architectural periods, with the uppermost … Continue reading Day 5: Kara-Tepe

Day 6: Chapel of St. George the Victorious

In 1865, Tashkent was a city under siege, pestered by a Russian Imperial Force of 1,500 men under the command of Mikhail Grigorievich Chernyaev.  After making an unsuccessful attempt at taking the city in October 1864, Chernayev retreated to Shymkent for the winter where he was able to plan his second attack for the next … Continue reading Day 6: Chapel of St. George the Victorious

Day 7: Minor Mosque

Situated along the left bank of the ancient Angor canal running through the center of Tashkent, the Minor Mosque is a brand new example of monumental architecture in the post-independence era of Uzbekistan.  The first President of the Republic, Islam Karimov, ordered its construction through an executive order that a mosque should be built within … Continue reading Day 7: Minor Mosque