Day 2: Kokildor-Ota Khanaka

15th century Termez was a city on the brink of transition.  The Timirud epoch was in full swing, decedents of Amir Timur fighting amongst themselves to maintain the vestiges of his once great empire, and putting their own personal stamp on things with monumental construction projects all over Central Asia.  The Sayyids were still hanging … Continue reading Day 2: Kokildor-Ota Khanaka

Day 41: Ulugbek Observatory

Affairs of the state often kept Ulugbek from his passion for the stars, but being Sultan comes with its perks.  In addition to founding three madrassas to advance the world's understanding of astronomy and mathematics, the Timurid ruler also built one of the most important observatories of the Middle Ages in his capital city of … Continue reading Day 41: Ulugbek Observatory

Day 49: Kok-Gumbaz

Our supr-of-the-moment decision to take a side trip to Shakhrisabz turned out to be well worth the extra expense of $50 for the whole day.  We met our taxi driver (as I was reminded after erroneously reporting our hotel arranged it) when we arrived at the Samarkand train station.  He was waiting patiently well past the … Continue reading Day 49: Kok-Gumbaz

Day 72: Don’t Blame Italy (or your host country)

It's now my second year here in Italy, and I have to say, I love it!  If you found me on any given day in the last 2 years, you would probably hear me say that I want to live here forever.  This has partly to do with the fact that my mother's parents came from … Continue reading Day 72: Don’t Blame Italy (or your host country)